Planting fall bulbs
Fall is the right time to plant spring-blooming bulbs, and the work goes in before the first frost of the season. Most spring-flowering bulbs need a stretch of cold, about 12 to 16 weeks, before they can produce flowers. Give yourself two to three weeks before the ground freezes so bulbs have time to root. Wait until the soil at planting depth cools below 60°F (16°C) before you start. Bulbs prefer a spot with full sun. Good drainage also matters, since bulbs can rot in soil that stays wet for a long time.
When: Fall (Sep–Nov)
When to do it
Plant spring-blooming bulbs in fall, before the first frost of the season. Wait until the soil at planting depth stays below 60°F (16°C) before you put bulbs in the ground. Aim to plant two to three weeks before the ground freezes, so bulbs have time to root. Most spring-flowering bulbs then need 12 to 16 weeks of cold to produce flowers. Plant bulbs as soon as possible after you buy them. If you must delay, store them in a cool, dark place such as an unlit garage. Keep stored bulbs in a cool area below 60°F (16°C) until planting. Keep fruit away from stored bulbs, since the ethylene gas it gives off can prevent blooming.
What you need
Check your soil's pH before you plant; most bulbs do best between 6 and 7. A soil test tells you how much fertilizer and lime to apply. Without a soil test, apply 1 to 2 lb of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 sq ft (9.3 sq m) in fall for a permanent planting. Apply it at planting time, when it is most available to the roots. Unless a test shows a deficiency, skip the fertilizer and work in compost instead. When you dig the planting hole, mix in organic matter equal to a third to half of the soil you remove. If drainage is poor, mix 2 to 3 in (5-7.5 cm) of compost or shredded pine bark into the bed, 10 to 12 in (25-30 cm) deep. Raised beds or drainage tiles can also help solve a drainage problem. After planting, cover the bed with 2 to 3 in (5-7.5 cm) of mulch. Mulch limits temperature swings over winter while keeping the soil moist. Chicken wire laid flat over the bed, anchored with U-shaped staples, keeps squirrels and chipmunks from digging up newly planted bulbs, especially tulips.
Step by step
- Step 1
Choose large, firm bulbs
Skip ones with cuts or gashes.
- Step 2
Plant bulbs in fall
Get them in before the first frost.
- Step 3
Wait for cooler soil
Plant once it stays below 60°F (16°C) at planting depth.
- Step 4
Time planting for rooting
Allow two to three weeks before the ground freezes.
- Step 5
Give bulbs their chill time
Most need 12 to 16 weeks of cold to bloom.
- Step 6
Pick a full-sun site
Bulbs prefer full sun.
- Step 7
Try planting under deciduous trees
They let in sun before the trees leaf out.
- Step 8
Make sure the site drains well
Wet soil for too long can rot bulbs.
- Step 9
Fix poor drainage with organic matter
Mix it into the bed 10 to 12 in (25-30 cm) deep.
- Step 10
Try a raised bed or drainage tile
Either helps solve a drainage problem.
- Step 11
Check your soil's pH
Aim for 6 to 7.
- Step 12
Test your soil first
Apply fertilizer and lime based on the results.
- Step 13
Skip the test, use a standard rate
Apply 1 to 2 lb of 10-10-10 per 100 sq ft (9.3 sq m) in fall.
- Step 14
Fertilize at planting time
Roots can use it best then.
- Step 15
Skip fertilizer unless a test shows a need
Add compost instead.
- Step 16
Amend the planting hole
Mix in organic matter equal to a third to half the soil removed.
- Step 17
Set depth and spacing by bulb size
Plant about three times as deep as the bulb is wide, spaced as far apart.
- Step 18
Use bulb height as a depth guide
A 2 in (5 cm) tulip bulb goes 5 to 6 in (13-15 cm) deep.
- Step 19
Follow the general depth rule
Plant two to three times deeper than the bulb's width.
- Step 20
Note this other depth guideline
Some guidance sets depth at four to five times bulb height.
- Step 21
Adjust depth for soil type
Go 1 to 2 in (2.5-5 cm) deeper in sandy soil, shallower in clay.
- Step 22
Plant daffodils at the right depth
Set Narcissus bulbs 8 in (20 cm) deep.
- Step 23
Space daffodil bulbs correctly
Set them 2 to 3 in (5-7.5 cm) apart, 10 to 12 per square foot (0.09 sq m).
- Step 24
Plant tulips at the right depth and spacing
Set them 6 to 8 in (15-20 cm) deep, 4 to 6 in (10-15 cm) apart.
- Step 25
Follow this spacing for Tulipa clusiana
Plant 6 to 8 in (15-20 cm) deep, 4 to 5 in (10-13 cm) apart.
- Step 26
Orient the bulb correctly
Plant with the pointy tip facing up.
- Step 27
Set the bulb firmly
Pointed end up, root base down.
- Step 28
Water after planting
Give the bed a good soak.
- Step 29
Soak the bed once covered
Soak it thoroughly with water.
- Step 30
Water more in dry weather
Soak until the soil is wet throughout.
- Step 31
Mulch the bed after planting
Spread 2 to 3 in (5-7.5 cm) of mulch over it.
- Step 32
Mulch protects bulbs over winter
It limits temperature swings and keeps soil moist.
- Step 33
Mulch again once the ground freezes
Add about 3 in (7.5 cm) more to stop freezing and thawing.
- Step 34
Keep watering through the season
Water whenever the soil is dry.
- Step 35
Fertilize lightly after bloom
Feed lightly as flowers begin to die.
- Step 36
Fertilize again in spring
Repeat the 10-10-10 once shoots emerge.
- Step 37
Leave foliage until it fades
Wait for leaves to yellow and flop over before cutting them.
- Step 38
Watch for animals that eat tulips
Squirrels, mice, voles, and deer may eat the bulbs or plants.
- Step 39
Consider daffodils for animal-prone spots
They resist deer, rabbits, and salt.
- Step 40
Store bulbs before planting
Keep them below 60°F (16°C) in a cool area.
- Step 41
Keep bulbs away from fruit
Fruit gives off ethylene gas that can stop blooming.
- Step 42
Space bulbs by size
Large bulbs go 3 to 6 in (7.5-15 cm) apart, small bulbs 1 to 2 in (2.5-5 cm) apart.
- Step 43
Plant hyacinths in full sun
Space 3 to 6 in (7.5-15 cm) apart, 4 to 6 in (10-15 cm) deep.
- Step 44
Plant crocus in sun or light shade
Set 3 in (7.5 cm) deep, 3 to 4 in (7.5-10 cm) apart.
- Step 45
Give daffodils enough light
Pick a spot with six hours of sun while they're in leaf.
- Step 46
Divide daffodils every few years
Thin crowded bulbs every three or four years.
- Step 47
Let foliage finish its job
Leave it on for six weeks after bloom, or until it browns.
- Step 48
Protect bulbs from digging animals
Enclose tulip and crocus bulbs in wire mesh when planting.
- Step 49
Soak anemone tubers first
Let them soak overnight before planting.
- Step 50
Plant bulbs in groups
Odd-numbered groups look more attractive than single bulbs.
- Step 51
Skip frost pockets
Avoid low spots where frost usually collects.
- Step 52
Avoid wet spots
Don't plant where standing water collects.
- Step 53
Cover bulbs in two stages
Add half the soil, soak with water, then finish covering.
- Step 54
Cover the bed with chicken wire
Squirrels and chipmunks dig up tulips, so anchor wire flat with staples.
- Step 55
Don't overwater in spring
Soggy soil promotes bulb rot.
- Step 56
Store leftover divided bulbs well
Keep them cool, dry, and ventilated until fall.
- Step 57
Keep green foliage after blooming
It feeds the bulb for next year's bloom.
- Step 58
Pick the largest, firmest bulbs
A bigger bulb makes a bigger bloom.
- Step 59
Plant bulbs soon after buying
Get them in the ground as soon as possible.
- Step 60
Store bulbs if delayed
Use a cool, dark place like an unlit garage.
- Step 61
Dig one hole for a group
One larger hole beats planting bulbs one at a time.
- Step 62
Add organic material to the hole
Compost, manure, or mulch at the bottom all work.
- Step 63
Check for winter pooling first
Skip spots where water pools in winter.
- Step 64
Use raised beds in heavy soil
They improve drainage and cut rot risk.
- Step 65
Keep bulbs off south foundations
That spot warms soil too early and triggers growth too soon.
- Step 66
Decide if you need fertilizer
It isn't required, but apply at planting since phosphorus moves slowly through soil.
- Step 67
Don't worry about summer drought
Bulbs go dormant then and need no water.
- Step 68
Remove spent flowers
It stops seed production that would drain the bulb's energy.
- Step 69
Leave bulbs in the ground
They can stay year-round with no need to dig up after flowering.
Mistakes to avoid
One common mistake is overwatering bulbs in spring; soggy, wet soil promotes bulb rot. Planting in a spot with poor drainage causes the same problem, since bulbs can rot if the soil stays wet for a long time. Avoid low-lying areas where frost usually collects, and skip spots where standing water pools during winter. Planting against a south-facing foundation is another mistake, since that spot can warm the soil too early and trigger growth before its time. Removing the foliage too soon is a mistake too; wait until the leaves turn yellow and flop over, which signals they are done with photosynthesis. Don't let squirrels, chipmunks, mice, voles, or deer ruin the bed; gray squirrels, mice, voles, and deer are drawn to tulip bulbs and plants in particular. Laying chicken wire flat over the bed and anchoring it with U-shaped staples helps keep squirrels and chipmunks from digging up newly planted tulips. Storing bulbs near fruit is another error, since the ethylene gas fruit gives off can prevent blooming. Planting too shallow or too deep is also a common mistake; most bulbs go two to three times as deep as they are wide. Skipping the soil test and guessing at fertilizer is a mistake too; it is best to apply fertilizer and lime according to what the test shows.
How this page was made
- Written with AI assistance from the sources listed on this page. AI is never the source of a fact.