Open Grow Guide

Planting garlic

By Open Grow Guide Updated

Garlic is planted as cloves in fall. Gardeners usually plant one to two weeks after the first killing frost. Each clove needs four to six weeks in the ground to root before the soil freezes solid. A good site gets 6 or more hours of direct sun a day. The soil should be well-drained and moisture-retentive, with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Mulch protects the bed over winter. Harvest usually falls between late June and late July. It begins once the lower leaves have browned while about half the upper leaves stay green. After curing for a few weeks, well-cured bulbs store for months in a cool, dark, airy spot.

When: Fall (Sep–Nov)

When to do it

Plant garlic cloves in fall. Do this usually one to two weeks after your area's first killing frost. Push planting as late into fall as is practical. That way the clove grows only a few inches of green top before winter stops it. Gardeners in colder regions often plant about two weeks later than the usual local planting date. Whatever date you pick, give the cloves at least four to six weeks in the ground before it freezes solid. That gives the roots time to become established. Harvest usually falls between late June and late July. The exact timing depends on the variety you planted and your climate zone. Watch the leaves rather than the calendar. Harvest begins once the lower leaves have browned and about half the upper leaves are still green.

What you need

You need seed garlic, meaning whole bulbs that you break into cloves. A typical bulb holds about 10 cloves, and you plant the larger outer ones. Pick a planting site that gets 6 or more hours of direct sun a day. The soil there should be well-drained and moisture-retentive, with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Keep 3 to 4 inches (7.6-10 cm) of leaf or straw mulch on hand to cover the bed for winter. Have a nitrogen fertilizer ready for topping off growth once shoots appear. If you have not tested your soil, apply about 25 lb (11.3 kg) of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 1,000 sq ft (93 m²) before planting. Add 0.5 lb (0.23 kg) of sulfur to that same area. A floating row cover protects the crop from allium leafminer. If you are growing in a pot instead of a bed, use a container at least 8 inches (20 cm) deep.

Step by step

  1. Step 1

    Set cloves into the soil in fall

    Do this about one to two weeks after the first killing frost in your area.

  2. Step 2

    Push your planting date as late into fall as is practical

    This way the clove grows only a few inches of green top before winter stops it.

  3. Step 3

    Delay planting about two extra weeks if you garden in a colder region

    Plant that much later than the usual local planting date for your area.

  4. Step 4

    Give the cloves time to root before winter

    Aim for at least four to six weeks in the soil before the ground freezes solid.

  5. Step 5

    Choose a planting site in full sun

    Pick a spot that gets 6 or more hours of direct sunlight a day.

  6. Step 6

    Check that your soil drains well

    Garlic grows best in well-drained, moisture-retentive soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0.

  7. Step 7

    Break the bulb apart just before planting

    Separate it into individual cloves one to two days ahead of planting, not weeks in advance.

  8. Step 8

    Select the largest outer cloves for planting

    A typical garlic bulb has about 10 cloves, and the larger outer ones are the ones to plant.

  9. Step 9

    Set each clove pointed end up

    Keep it in an upright position in the planting hole.

  10. Step 10

    Plant each clove at the right depth

    Set the base of the clove two to three inches (5-7.6 cm) below the soil surface.

  11. Step 11

    Space cloves across the bed

    Set them 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm) apart and 2 to 3 inches (5-7.6 cm) deep.

  12. Step 12

    Cover each clove with soil

    A covering depth of about 1 inch (2.5 cm) is enough.

  13. Step 13

    Use closer spacing if you prefer a denser bed

    Some growers space cloves 4 inches (10 cm) apart instead.

  14. Step 14

    Lay out double rows for a larger planting

    Space the two rows six inches (15 cm) apart, and center each pair of rows on beds 30 inches (76 cm) apart.

  15. Step 15

    Grow garlic in a container if you lack bed space

    Choose a container that is at least 8 inches (20 cm) deep.

  16. Step 16

    Expect growth below ground first

    Roots and shoots usually form inside the clove by the first hard freeze, though shoots will not show above the soil until the following spring.

  17. Step 17

    Cover the bed with mulch for winter

    Add three to four inches (7.6-10 cm) of leaf or straw mulch to buffer winter and early-spring temperature swings.

  18. Step 18

    Keep the mulch layer in place through the cold months

    It also helps prevent weeds from competing with the cloves.

  19. Step 19

    Pull the mulch back in spring

    Remove it once the threat of hard freezes has passed, so the soil can warm up.

  20. Step 20

    Feed the bed with nitrogen once shoots appear

    Top-dress with nitrogen fertilizer as soon as shoots emerge, then again two to three weeks later.

  21. Step 21

    Stop nitrogen feeding by early May

    Avoid nitrogen applications after the first week of May, since later feeding can delay bulbing.

  22. Step 22

    Fertilize before planting if you have not tested your soil

    Apply about 25 lb (11.3 kg) of 5-10-10 fertilizer plus 0.5 lb (0.23 kg) of sulfur per 1,000 sq ft (93 m²).

  23. Step 23

    Side-dress the planting twice in spring

    Apply fertilizer about 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm) from the stem in early spring, then again as day length starts to increase in May.

  24. Step 24

    Cut off the flower stalk on hardneck varieties

    Removing this scape matters, since skipping the step reduces bulb size by an average of 30 percent.

  25. Step 25

    Water the bed weekly during the growing season

    Soak the soil thoroughly to a depth of at least one inch (2.5 cm) each week.

  26. Step 26

    Stop watering as harvest approaches

    Cut off watering about two weeks before harvest to avoid staining bulb wrappers and promoting disease.

  27. Step 27

    Cover the crop with a floating row cover

    This protects the plants against allium leafminer.

  28. Step 28

    Plan to harvest in early-to-mid summer

    Harvest usually falls between late June and late July, depending on the variety and your climate zone.

  29. Step 29

    Watch the leaves to time your harvest

    Begin harvest once the lower leaves have turned brown and half, or slightly more than half, of the upper leaves are still green.

  30. Step 30

    Confirm readiness by the overall leaf color

    Harvest once about half of the leaves have started turning brown.

  31. Step 31

    Trim the shoots after digging the bulbs

    Cut the shoots to one-half to one inch (1.3-2.5 cm) above the bulbs.

  32. Step 32

    Cure the plants before storage

    Dry them in a warm, dry, airy place for three to four weeks.

  33. Step 33

    Spread the bulbs out to cure in a sheltered spot

    A shady, warm, dry area with good airflow cures them in 2 to 3 weeks.

  34. Step 34

    Wait for the leaves to dry out fully

    Only once the leaves are completely dried should you remove the leaves, roots and outer wrapping.

  35. Step 35

    Store cured bulbs out of the fridge

    Keep them in a dry, cool area instead of refrigerating them.

  36. Step 36

    Pick a storage spot with airflow

    A well-ventilated, cool, dry area works best.

  37. Step 37

    Keep stored garlic out of the light

    A dark space with good airflow lets well-cured bulbs keep for months.

  38. Step 38

    Rotate your planting site over the years

    Move garlic to a new spot in the rotation every four years.

  39. Step 39

    Save seed for next year's crop

    Set aside the biggest bulb from the harvest to replant the following year.

Mistakes to avoid

The goal is for the clove to grow only a few inches of green top before winter stops it. Planting too late also causes problems. Cloves need at least four to six weeks in the ground before it freezes to become established. Feeding that late can delay bulbing. On hardneck varieties, leaving the flower stalk, or scape, in place is a mistake too. Skipping that step cuts bulb size by an average of 30 percent. Watering right up to harvest instead of stopping about two weeks beforehand is another error. It can stain the bulb wrappers and promote disease. Skipping mulch lets weeds compete with the crop. Leaving mulch on too long into spring keeps the soil from warming up. Wait until the lower leaves are brown and about half the upper leaves are still green. Removing the leaves, roots and outer wrapping too soon is also a mistake. Wait until the leaves are completely dried before removing them.

How this page was made

  • Written with AI assistance from the sources listed on this page. AI is never the source of a fact.

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